Feva Tuning and setup
Klikk her for å laste ned – RS Feva Tuning Guide
1) Shockcord to stop kite-halyard from cleatingwhen dropping the kite
There are 2 groovesunder the jib cleats – move the elastic holding up the toes straps tothe back groove, and fit a piece of shockcord between themas in the photo – go under the kite uphaul between cleat and block, and over the kite downhaul. Get a piece of plastic tubing 150mm long, and tie it centrally to the uphaul. This will stopthe shockcord chafing on the halyard.
3) Adjustable bridle
Unless you are very good working with fids and spectra, get your chandlery to make these up for you, attached to the mainsheet block. Or buy the complete set fromLDC. Cut two pieces of dynema 1000mmlength, then make a large loop splice in one end as show below, with the block in the loop.
4) 2:1 purchase for jib halyard
The good news is no new parts here! Just tie a loop in the halyard, and use that loop to get more purchase.
5) Adjustable outhaul
Get rid of the elastic and tie the front end as shown above. Note alsothe outhaul block is tied around the mast. If it is tied to the blue plastic block on the boomyou can pull the boomoff the mast at the wrong moment! This will make it mucheasier to adjust whilst racing.
6) Gybing strop
Make gybing in strong winds easier by using a strop. Tie it under the front mainsheet block on the boom,and whip on a plastic ring to the other end. It willnot get in the way whilst upwind sailing if it is used like this. To gybe, pull on the strop atthe right moment, rather than the mainsheet.
7) 2:1 Mainsheet
Note that the mainsheet is put through the block and tied off with a stopper knot. If the wind goes light it is a easy matter to untiethe knot, unfeed it fromthe block and retie the stopper knot. The mainsheet is then 1:1. You will need a newblock (Eg Holt-Allen HAL040) and a longer mainsheet (8.0 Metres).
8) Adjustable kicker
The original ones supplied with the boat are hard to adjust whilst sailing. Available frommost chandlery shops or as a complete systemfromLDC (Part #FEVMRK currently £49.95).
9) Jib Tack- tight aspossible to themetal bracket
Get the tack as low down as possible. This will allow the slot to beat its most open – essential for light wind.
10) Jibcloth tension
This works rather like a jib Cunningham. It shouldn’t be necessary really to adjust for different conditions, but the chances are thatthe tension is too tight when you get a new jib. Check this by making sure there are novertical creases up the jib luff – they are easier to feel than to see. A few horizontal creases will do no harm. Ifin doubt, better to sail with it too slack than too tight. Adjust it by altering the lacing on the top ofthe jib, where the materialis attached to the luff-rope.
11) Jibsheet arrangement
A personal choice this. Ifyou have the knots at the clew of the jib, there will be fewer knots in the cockpit and therefore less rope tangles. The opposite argument is that you have less weight on the jib clew if you tie the sheets to the jib in the middle. Weprefer the first choice!
Sameargument as 10. Again we prefer less tangles!If the wind is really light, and going to stay light, get somelightweight sheets – samerope as the spinnaker halyard for example.
13) Length of spinnaker halyard
Someboats were supplied with overlength halyards. Well, better than too short I suppose. Make sure yours is the right length as follows:
i) Tie the downhaul to the kite with a large loop (100mm). This will make it to drop inthe
chute more easily.
ii) Rig the kite on the boatand pull it into its stowage position in the chute.
iii) The halyard should stretch back to over the middle of the thwart.
If it is too long, cut it tosize to reduce the amount of rope in the cockpit. Less rope = less tangling.
14) Taping Up
Now for preventing snagging. Make sure by taping up all fittings to prevent ropes getting caught at the wrong moment. There is nothing worse than going round the top mark in the lead, then being unable to launch the kite becauseit is snagged under the jib.
15) Hatches – do they leak?
This is not fast, especially after a capsize. Someboats earlier than #750 were fixed with roundhead screws, and these hold the hatch awayfromthe fitting so letting in water. Take themout, countersink the holes in the hatches,and replace with countersunk screws.